Monday, July 21, 2008

Swakopmund to Camp Xaragu

This morning we left our beautiful guesthouse in Swakopmund and headed north along the coast for a few hours. It was a spectacular morning and we could see the ocean clearly as we traveled along. It was very amusing to see that there are “loos” all along the beach. Josea says that the beach is full of campers in December but today it was just the loos – miles and miles of them.
Then we turned in and drove slowly up from the coast. At first it was quite boring and then the scenery improved to more hilly areas with more trees. Then – unbelievably enough – we saw an elephant standing on the top of a nearby hill. We stopped and then realized that there were a total of seven elephants. I have never seen an elephant in the wild and nearly cried. They were so beautiful. Josea was worried that I was going too close but I didn’t feel like there was any danger. He also said that the desert adapted elephant is only rarely seen – and we saw seven! That was worth the trip to Namibia!!
On our way to our lunch resting place, Phil stopped and bought rocks from a roadside stand. I don’t think that they have ever seen a geologist with a hand lens before – but he sat there and calmly looked at the rocks with his lens, marveling at the presence of actual fluid inclusions (that are big enough to see with the naked eye) in the rocks. When it came time to pay, I tried to get him to negotiate lower- but he was so pleased with his finds that he paid what he thought he should. I think everyone (the sellers and the buyer) was happy.

We drove down to a riverbed for lunch and Josea set up a table and chairs. Soon two little children came down the path. They sat a discreet distance away and, when I had finished my lunch, I took out the Polaroid camera that my friend Robyn had recommended that I bring and went over to them. I took two pictures and gave them to them – and they were SO pleased. Josea says that their mothers will keep those pictures until they are all grown up. They probably have never seen a picture of themselves. Then they posed with me for a picture.



We drove a few more hours to the Twyfelfontein Historical Site- where there are bushmen carvings in the rocks that are dated at 2000-6000 years old. I’m not sure who was more excited, Phil or me. He thought the rocks were so cool- he has been teaching about this area all his life – and felt that he had arrived at the “holy grail”. And I was stunned by the carvings- The bushmen carved animals, footprints, sea mammals and maps that showed where the watering holes are. It was pretty amazing to see.
Next we stopped at Burnt Mountain and at the Organ Pipes – nearby rocks formations that amazed and thrilled Phil. Then we drove a short distance to Camp Xaragu, our home for the night. Tonight we are staying in a permanent tent – with an outdoor shower and toilet. Quite a change from last night. But what a beautiful spot it is – and we feel so lucky to be here in Africa – with the ancient mountains, the crystal clear skies, and a chance to spend another day seeing this marvelous country.

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